To be honest, I consider my visit to Chamonix the highlight of my Swiss tour. Even if I wouldn’t see anything else, it worth all the efforts. It is not just because I can now say I’ve been on the tallest mountain in Europe. But the experience is nothing I ever had before or even imagined. Gosh, I LOVE the mountains! They are tough and they are the most beautiful thing on the planet. You can say about the ocean he is wise, you can say about the river she is kind, you can say about the forest he is magical…mountains are magnificent Any words with attribute lesser then majestic won’t be expressive enough to say about mountains. There is something very royal about them. And if one stands on the top of the mountain, there is that feeling of being on the top of the world. Being above all the routine of life. Being above the worries of the everyday’s. Have I said I LOVE mountains?!
Mont Blanc is the tallest peak in Europe – 4808 meters high. Very popular for mountaineering and skiing. Lies between France and Italy and is the most spectacular mount of the Alps massif. French call her La Dame Blanche. Gentle feminine name reflects relatively easy approach to her, making it incredibly popular among alpinists. But as a typical lady, this babe is well known for her moods. The mountain is almost at the end of the main Alpine chain so she gets all the edgy weather and is prone to sudden and violent storms, even in summer. To make it clear at the very beginning: no, I did not climb all the way to the top of Mont Blanc. There is a lazy way to enjoy breathtaking views – a cable car from Chamonix takes you up to the South peak, only 8 kilometres from the top of Mont Blanc - Aiguille du Midi – 3840 meters and that was my way.
The ascent happened in stages: first you take a cable car from the station in the centre of Chamonix. This one takes you up to the first snow. You are still under the clouds, so the whole valley is literally under your feet. You can see the villages still, but you cannot see the cars already. Then you take the second cable car and this takes you further at 1.5 kilometres up. Eerier experience of floating silently through the cloud…first the earth literally disappears from under your feet, then you don’t see anything full stop, riding through the cloud, suddenly right in front of you there is a strictly vertical rock and last meters the cabin simply climbs along the rocky wall. After that they give you ice axe and you make your own way to the top…
Ok, only kidding (and only about the ice axe) at the top of the second line of funicular there is a futuristically-looking base with the viewing platforms, bridges across the cracks, various snow tunnels and usual facilities for your convenience. There is even a small café there that sells Panini and French fries.
To be honest, when I walked to the cable car station in Chamonix, I had my doubts if I should bother with the climbing – the sign in the ticket window tells: “visibility zero; temperature – 8 C” Made me re-evaluate my favourite sandals. Looked up to the top of the peak – it hides behind the cloud and the cloud is somewhat XXXL in size and seems like being stuck to the pointy top and just hanging there without any wish to move. Now, that would’ve been a shame to come all that way and do not try it, wouldn’t it? So I decided at least I’ll get a shot of me and the sign that says
When there is little chance of catching a view, you have to balance between an opportunity to have an exiting experience and future regrets that you missed it. I hate having regrets. And so in about half-hour I was already almost 4 kilometres higher, deep in the snow and completely blinded by the light reflected off all the whiteness around. Despite of “visibility zero” I had to put my sunglasses on otherwise it hurts to look, even if you don’t see a thing. Surprisingly it was also warmer on the outside then it was inside of the base. So every time when I felt no sensitivity in my fingers clinged to the camera, I walked outside to melt down a bit. Such a sudden raise to a high altitude doesn’t give any opportunity of gradual adjustment to it. Head went dizzy the sounds - muffled and generally it felt a bit on a tipsy side.
There are, actually, lots of things to do on Aiguille du Midi. There are so many pathways, bridges, viewing terraces (though there was nothing particular to view, except from the thick milky wall of a cloud) as I have time to spare; I’ve explored the place thoroughly. And discovered that you can get this way to…Italy – on the other end of one of the tunnels there was different cable car line and a sign that this is territory of Italy. Pity I couldn’t stay longer and pay a visit!
Since I ignore signs in French (what’s the point if I can’t understand them anyway!?), I managed to walk through a passageway that led to the starting point for alpinist routes and made a surprise appearance in front of a couple of alpinists who happened to be there. Alpinists happened to speak English and kindly demonstrated me how to hold the ice axe the right way. (never miss an opportunity to learn new skills in those mountains, eh?)
So, as I said, I’ve wondered around all the facilities at the top and was almost ready to go down…just one cup of coffee, I thought, and that was a presentiment. Apart from enjoyment of sipping hot coffee sitting by the panoramic window somewhat 4 kilometres above the ground, I’ve also got a chance to catch the very moment when the mountain finally has loosen up her embrace and let the cloud be gone with the wind! Back at the viewing terrace the views took my breath away…there are no words to describe what I saw. And even considering that the side facing Mont Blanc itself didn’t cleared up for me that day, still I would say: it was all so worth it.
I’ve spent on the terrace about half-hour. Just couldn’t get enough of it. The clouds were definitely in a playful mood - one moment veiling the mountains from us, next – flirting shamelessly, half-opening various views in turn. It was only the western side of the peak that I’ve got to see that day – long chains of the rocks in sugar-hats of snow and a valley running away into horizon like a deep fold of dark green velvet.
In a way, of course, I was upset that I couldn’t see the beauty of La Dame Blanche. I’m sure it supposed to be a “sight to die for”. However, I’ve managed to meet fellow Englishmen on the Top of the Europe – the guys were from Sheffield and they came to stay in Chamonix for a week specifically hunting for the views of Mont Blanc – they are professional photographers. We exchanged our e-mails and a week later I already have a picture of what I have missed on the other side of the peak. (Thanks a bunch, Steve!!!)
This particular trip left me craving for another visit, which doesn’t happen often in my travels. Although I do enjoy all the places I’ve been so far, only very few of them pull my heart to go back again…
Last lot of Switzerland still to come next time…
Mont Blanc is the tallest peak in Europe – 4808 meters high. Very popular for mountaineering and skiing. Lies between France and Italy and is the most spectacular mount of the Alps massif. French call her La Dame Blanche. Gentle feminine name reflects relatively easy approach to her, making it incredibly popular among alpinists. But as a typical lady, this babe is well known for her moods. The mountain is almost at the end of the main Alpine chain so she gets all the edgy weather and is prone to sudden and violent storms, even in summer. To make it clear at the very beginning: no, I did not climb all the way to the top of Mont Blanc. There is a lazy way to enjoy breathtaking views – a cable car from Chamonix takes you up to the South peak, only 8 kilometres from the top of Mont Blanc - Aiguille du Midi – 3840 meters and that was my way.
The ascent happened in stages: first you take a cable car from the station in the centre of Chamonix. This one takes you up to the first snow. You are still under the clouds, so the whole valley is literally under your feet. You can see the villages still, but you cannot see the cars already. Then you take the second cable car and this takes you further at 1.5 kilometres up. Eerier experience of floating silently through the cloud…first the earth literally disappears from under your feet, then you don’t see anything full stop, riding through the cloud, suddenly right in front of you there is a strictly vertical rock and last meters the cabin simply climbs along the rocky wall. After that they give you ice axe and you make your own way to the top…
Ok, only kidding (and only about the ice axe) at the top of the second line of funicular there is a futuristically-looking base with the viewing platforms, bridges across the cracks, various snow tunnels and usual facilities for your convenience. There is even a small café there that sells Panini and French fries.
To be honest, when I walked to the cable car station in Chamonix, I had my doubts if I should bother with the climbing – the sign in the ticket window tells: “visibility zero; temperature – 8 C” Made me re-evaluate my favourite sandals. Looked up to the top of the peak – it hides behind the cloud and the cloud is somewhat XXXL in size and seems like being stuck to the pointy top and just hanging there without any wish to move. Now, that would’ve been a shame to come all that way and do not try it, wouldn’t it? So I decided at least I’ll get a shot of me and the sign that says
When there is little chance of catching a view, you have to balance between an opportunity to have an exiting experience and future regrets that you missed it. I hate having regrets. And so in about half-hour I was already almost 4 kilometres higher, deep in the snow and completely blinded by the light reflected off all the whiteness around. Despite of “visibility zero” I had to put my sunglasses on otherwise it hurts to look, even if you don’t see a thing. Surprisingly it was also warmer on the outside then it was inside of the base. So every time when I felt no sensitivity in my fingers clinged to the camera, I walked outside to melt down a bit. Such a sudden raise to a high altitude doesn’t give any opportunity of gradual adjustment to it. Head went dizzy the sounds - muffled and generally it felt a bit on a tipsy side.
There are, actually, lots of things to do on Aiguille du Midi. There are so many pathways, bridges, viewing terraces (though there was nothing particular to view, except from the thick milky wall of a cloud) as I have time to spare; I’ve explored the place thoroughly. And discovered that you can get this way to…Italy – on the other end of one of the tunnels there was different cable car line and a sign that this is territory of Italy. Pity I couldn’t stay longer and pay a visit!
Since I ignore signs in French (what’s the point if I can’t understand them anyway!?), I managed to walk through a passageway that led to the starting point for alpinist routes and made a surprise appearance in front of a couple of alpinists who happened to be there. Alpinists happened to speak English and kindly demonstrated me how to hold the ice axe the right way. (never miss an opportunity to learn new skills in those mountains, eh?)
So, as I said, I’ve wondered around all the facilities at the top and was almost ready to go down…just one cup of coffee, I thought, and that was a presentiment. Apart from enjoyment of sipping hot coffee sitting by the panoramic window somewhat 4 kilometres above the ground, I’ve also got a chance to catch the very moment when the mountain finally has loosen up her embrace and let the cloud be gone with the wind! Back at the viewing terrace the views took my breath away…there are no words to describe what I saw. And even considering that the side facing Mont Blanc itself didn’t cleared up for me that day, still I would say: it was all so worth it.
I’ve spent on the terrace about half-hour. Just couldn’t get enough of it. The clouds were definitely in a playful mood - one moment veiling the mountains from us, next – flirting shamelessly, half-opening various views in turn. It was only the western side of the peak that I’ve got to see that day – long chains of the rocks in sugar-hats of snow and a valley running away into horizon like a deep fold of dark green velvet.
In a way, of course, I was upset that I couldn’t see the beauty of La Dame Blanche. I’m sure it supposed to be a “sight to die for”. However, I’ve managed to meet fellow Englishmen on the Top of the Europe – the guys were from Sheffield and they came to stay in Chamonix for a week specifically hunting for the views of Mont Blanc – they are professional photographers. We exchanged our e-mails and a week later I already have a picture of what I have missed on the other side of the peak. (Thanks a bunch, Steve!!!)
This particular trip left me craving for another visit, which doesn’t happen often in my travels. Although I do enjoy all the places I’ve been so far, only very few of them pull my heart to go back again…
Last lot of Switzerland still to come next time…