Like I’ve mentioned before, I didn’t have particular plans for my travels this time. I simply grabbed the opportunities when they presented themselves. One of the opportunities came as an invitation from one of my classmate to visit her town and spend a day in the forests of Kaluga region – somewhere in Central Russia, 3 hours away from Moscow. We took a ride late afternoon and had the whole next day to wander around. I have to say it was a rather specific adventure. For we’ve been visiting exclusively holy places. It appeared that there are many Orthodox monasteries in Kaluga region.
One of the most famous one is - Optina Pustyn. It began as a simple monastic retreat in the forests somewhere in 14 century and it has become one of the most important religious sites in all of Russia and a centre for starchestvo (a community of wise, ascetic elders-startsy-respected for their prophesy). But let’s ignore the fact that it is a monastery for men and just walk among the modest buildings with the blue and gold onion heads, maybe take a stroll around in the fields and woods that surround the Monastery...
this is Middle Russia in her best...edgeless fields of greens in all the variety...bluest skies you ever see with the white cloudy ceiling of the world...curly river in the tight embrace of the trees and bushes...and a space…such space that you cannot imagine it might end somewhere...
Let’s also take a brief walk around the monastery...I don't do the rituals, but I don't mind others doing them...when we went there, I just watched...I sat inside the churches, enjoying paintings and mosaics - some of them off the hands of the famous artists...there is something inspiring in the spiritual perceptions of the artist who paints inexistent images...I am amazed by the scale of their imagination...the place itself is also peaceful and quiet...it is common sense to carry your faith in a silence of your spirit...(Now, this is not a fancy dress party, there is a dress code in orthodox religious places...for women - a scarf and a skirt is a must...I think, I look like Matreshka...*laughs* )
Optina Monastery wasn’t the only place we explored that day. We also visited women’s monastery nearby – Shamordino. I could only take few snaps by my mobile, as the photography was not permitted there. Shamordino caused very different feelings. If Optina Pustyn appeared as a tranquil place where one can feel spiritually free, Shamordino come out as the eerie reminder of the harsh reality of the mortal life. Perhaps, it is because of rather unusual colour scheme of the buildings in the monastery – red bricks and black domes…not very traditional orthodox’s blues&gold ...
Apart from the prominent orthodox structures all monasteries have very special features within them – the holy springs – it is said that the water in them has a healing power, so many people would even travel specifically to the monasteries to bathe in the sacred springs and to fill few bottles with the water to take home.
On our way back from Shamordino we made a very brief stop at yet another holy spring that happened to be on our way too – Tihonovo.
Anyway, all the places were very interesting and I found it is somewhat meaningful that my journey in Russia this time happened to be so spiritually rich, as if it was meant for me this way.
One more place I'd like to share…Middle Russia is covered with tiny rivers…the same way as with small villages here and there, often with only few houses hidden in the middle of nowhere. Life in such places flows very slow, time tastes like a honey poured off the spoon, thick syrup of gold, sweet sip of a lazy dream, soft to the heart, healing to the soul…In the village I’ve stayed overnight there was a river that seemed like not going anywhere at all, so sleepy she was, so motionless, peaceful. With a name like a soft night whisper – Shanya…
...Last more to come...
One of the most famous one is - Optina Pustyn. It began as a simple monastic retreat in the forests somewhere in 14 century and it has become one of the most important religious sites in all of Russia and a centre for starchestvo (a community of wise, ascetic elders-startsy-respected for their prophesy). But let’s ignore the fact that it is a monastery for men and just walk among the modest buildings with the blue and gold onion heads, maybe take a stroll around in the fields and woods that surround the Monastery...
this is Middle Russia in her best...edgeless fields of greens in all the variety...bluest skies you ever see with the white cloudy ceiling of the world...curly river in the tight embrace of the trees and bushes...and a space…such space that you cannot imagine it might end somewhere...
Let’s also take a brief walk around the monastery...I don't do the rituals, but I don't mind others doing them...when we went there, I just watched...I sat inside the churches, enjoying paintings and mosaics - some of them off the hands of the famous artists...there is something inspiring in the spiritual perceptions of the artist who paints inexistent images...I am amazed by the scale of their imagination...the place itself is also peaceful and quiet...it is common sense to carry your faith in a silence of your spirit...(Now, this is not a fancy dress party, there is a dress code in orthodox religious places...for women - a scarf and a skirt is a must...I think, I look like Matreshka...*laughs* )
Optina Monastery wasn’t the only place we explored that day. We also visited women’s monastery nearby – Shamordino. I could only take few snaps by my mobile, as the photography was not permitted there. Shamordino caused very different feelings. If Optina Pustyn appeared as a tranquil place where one can feel spiritually free, Shamordino come out as the eerie reminder of the harsh reality of the mortal life. Perhaps, it is because of rather unusual colour scheme of the buildings in the monastery – red bricks and black domes…not very traditional orthodox’s blues&gold ...
Apart from the prominent orthodox structures all monasteries have very special features within them – the holy springs – it is said that the water in them has a healing power, so many people would even travel specifically to the monasteries to bathe in the sacred springs and to fill few bottles with the water to take home.
On our way back from Shamordino we made a very brief stop at yet another holy spring that happened to be on our way too – Tihonovo.
Anyway, all the places were very interesting and I found it is somewhat meaningful that my journey in Russia this time happened to be so spiritually rich, as if it was meant for me this way.
One more place I'd like to share…Middle Russia is covered with tiny rivers…the same way as with small villages here and there, often with only few houses hidden in the middle of nowhere. Life in such places flows very slow, time tastes like a honey poured off the spoon, thick syrup of gold, sweet sip of a lazy dream, soft to the heart, healing to the soul…In the village I’ve stayed overnight there was a river that seemed like not going anywhere at all, so sleepy she was, so motionless, peaceful. With a name like a soft night whisper – Shanya…
...Last more to come...