Back to the other side of the Nile, in a village of El Ashmunein, there is a place called Hermopolis. My guide book says: In ancient times was it was one of the great Egyptian cities known as Khmunu (Shmun). The name Shmun, which is ancient Egyptian for the word 'eight', is interesting and reflects one of the creation myths of the ancient Egyptians. This refers to the eight ancestors of creation who created the first child and thus it was believed that the first sun rise was over this city, which in turn created the world.It was a place of worship to Thoth in the form of the ibis and baboon. The only monument left there is a Christian basilica. This Roman basilica was built on the site of a third century temple.
There are also two huge baboons which probably guarded the entrance to the Temple of Thoth, but little remains of this temple, or for that matter, other earlier remains. Near here is the small open air museum with a very few statues, mostly roman period.
The village itself is charming but when you are with military escort, there is not much choice of where you can go and where you can’t.
At one time there were thousands of mummified baboons, ibises and ibis eggs. Ibises and baboons were the sacred animals of Thoth.(more on Thoth later). The catacombs themselves have niches where they put the mummies of the birds… The Ibis mummies found in this vast tomb are estimated to be at least 4000000! Most of these mummies were stealed or destroyed by robbers. Yet since we were the only visitors, a local guard proudly demonstrated us a well preserved mummy of an ibis and even let us hold it! I also saw a mummy of baboon in one of small “chapel” inside the catacombs.
Then – a nice surprise – you’ll never guess whom we met in the middle of deserted site off the beaten tourist path! A bus full of local kids, of course! At that moment we already laughed almost hysterically. The kids were nice, as all the kids are and the policemen honestly tried to keep them away. But we were in the middle of a desert with nowhere to hide, besides the catacombs and the kids can run through sands much better and faster then two Europeans and their guards in heavy munitions…:-)I took a picture of those happy little faces – they will always remind me of the Friendliest Kids In The World.
That concluded our trip and we returned to Mynia to board our train back to Cairo. I must admit, I was leaving it with a bit of regret. I didn’t think that there will be so much to see and that we will have even more left unseen! What a pity…
There are also two huge baboons which probably guarded the entrance to the Temple of Thoth, but little remains of this temple, or for that matter, other earlier remains. Near here is the small open air museum with a very few statues, mostly roman period.
The village itself is charming but when you are with military escort, there is not much choice of where you can go and where you can’t.
And not far from this site there is another, most fascinating place – Tuna El Gebel. This site is best known for its huge animal necropolis. This necropolis located in catacombs and stretches underground a long way – to the Hermopolis , about 3 km. The theories exist that it might even reach the other side of the Nile – the Amarna.
At one time there were thousands of mummified baboons, ibises and ibis eggs. Ibises and baboons were the sacred animals of Thoth.(more on Thoth later). The catacombs themselves have niches where they put the mummies of the birds… The Ibis mummies found in this vast tomb are estimated to be at least 4000000! Most of these mummies were stealed or destroyed by robbers. Yet since we were the only visitors, a local guard proudly demonstrated us a well preserved mummy of an ibis and even let us hold it! I also saw a mummy of baboon in one of small “chapel” inside the catacombs.
The other best known monument at Tuna El-Gebel is the Tomb of Petosiris and his family. He was a high priest of Thoth and lived during the time of Alexander the Great. The tomb is actually – a house or a small temple, and then there is a shaft leading to the underground burial chamber. But we were not allowed there. The tomb has very beautiful decorations very well preserved. More in Roman-Greek style though…
Then – a nice surprise – you’ll never guess whom we met in the middle of deserted site off the beaten tourist path! A bus full of local kids, of course! At that moment we already laughed almost hysterically. The kids were nice, as all the kids are and the policemen honestly tried to keep them away. But we were in the middle of a desert with nowhere to hide, besides the catacombs and the kids can run through sands much better and faster then two Europeans and their guards in heavy munitions…:-)I took a picture of those happy little faces – they will always remind me of the Friendliest Kids In The World.
That concluded our trip and we returned to Mynia to board our train back to Cairo. I must admit, I was leaving it with a bit of regret. I didn’t think that there will be so much to see and that we will have even more left unseen! What a pity…